Handbook of fermented meat and poultry pdf download

Handbook of fermented meat and poultry pdf download

handbook of fermented meat and poultry pdf download

Traditionally, meat fermentation was based on the use of natural flora, including the Download book PDF Download to read the full chapter text Silveira, L. H. Stahnke, & R. Talon (Eds.), Handbook of fermented meat and poultry (pp. Pages·· MB·15, Downloads·New!, organ meats, and fermented foods. The traditional foods movement is a fad-free approach to coo. characterization of microbes in fermented meat products on selected Ghanaian markets. The work specifically shellfish, poultry, and more exotic species such as frogs and alligators (Nakai genus it fits into. The Bergey's Manual of Determi​-.

Handbook of Fermented Meat and Poultry

An internationally respected editorial team and array of chapter contributors have developed the Handbook of Fermented M

Author: Fidel Toldrá


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An internationally respected editorial team and array of chapter contributors have developed the Handbook of Fermented Meat and Poultry, an updated and comprehensive hands-on reference book on the science and technology of processing fermented meat and poultry products. Beginning with the principles of processing fermented meat and ending with discussions of product quality, safety, and consumer acceptance, the book takes three approaches: background and principles, product categories, and product quality and safety. The historical background on the fermentation of meat and poultry products is followed by a series of discussions on their science and technology: curing, fermentation, drying and smoking, basic ingredients (raw product, additives, spices, and casings), and starter cultures. Coverage of product categories details the science and technology of making various fermented meat and poultry products from different parts of the world, including: semidry-fermented sausages (summer sausage), dry-fermented sausages (salami), sausages from other meats, and ripened meat products (ham). Product quality and safety is probably the most important aspect of making fermented meat and poultry because it addresses the question of consumer acceptance and public health safety. While a processor may produce a wonderful sausage, the product must ultimately satisfy the consumer in terms of color, texture, taste, flavor, packaging, and so on. In the current political and social climate, food safety has a high priority. Coverage includes issues such as spoilage microorganisms, pathogens, amines, toxins, HACCP, and disease outbreaks.

About the Editor Fidel Toldrá, Ph.D., is a Research Professor and Head of the Meat Science Laboratory, Instituto de Agroquímica y Tecnologia de Alimentos (CSIC), Spain. Dr. Toldrá has co-edited and/or authored more than 14 books in food chemistry and food biochemistry, food flavors, and meat and poultry processing.

Associate Editors Y. H. Hui, Ph.D., Science Technology System, West Sacramento, California Iciar Astiasarán, Ph.D., University of Navarra, Pamplona, Spain Wai-Kit Nip, Ph.D., University of Hawaii at Manoa, Honolulu, Hawaii Joseph G. Sebranek, Ph.D., Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa Expedito-Tadeu F. Silveira, Ph.D., Instituto de Tecnología de Alimentos, Campinas – SP, Brazil Louise H. Stahnke, Ph.D., Chr. Hansen A/S, Hørsholm, Denmark Régine Talon, Ph.D., Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique, Saint-Genès Champanelle, France

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Handbook of Fermented Meat and Poultry

Handbook of Fermented Meat and Poultry

Handbook of

Fermented Meat and Poultry Fidel Toldrá Editor

a s s o c i at e E d i t o r s

Fidel Toldrá Editor

Hui Astiasarán Nip Sebranek Silveira Stahnke Talon

Y. H. Hui Iciar Astiasarán Wai-Kit Nip Joseph G. Sebranek Expedito-Tadeu F. Silveira Louise H. Stahnke Régine Talon

An internationally respected editorial team and array of chapter contributors have developed the Handbook of Fermented Meat and Poultry, an updated and comprehensive hands-on reference book on the science and technology of processing fermented meat and poultry products. Beginning with the principles of processing fermented meat and ending with discussions of product quality, safety, and consumer acceptance, the book takes three approaches: background and principles, product categories, and product quality and safety. The historical background on the fermentation of meat and poultry products is followed by a series of discussions on their science and technology: curing, fermentation, drying and smoking, basic ingredients (raw product, additives, spices, and casings), and starter cultures. Coverage of product categories details the science and technology of making various fermented meat and poultry products from different parts of the world, including: semidry-fermented sausages (summer sausage), dry-fermented sausages (salami), sausages from other meats, and ripened meat products (ham). Product quality and safety is probably the most important aspect of making fermented meat and poultry because it addresses the question of consumer acceptance and public health safety. While a processor may produce a wonderful sausage, the product must ultimately satisfy the consumer in terms of color, texture, taste, flavor, packaging, and so on. In the current political and social climate, food safety has a high priority. Coverage includes issues such as spoilage microorganisms, pathogens, amines, toxins, HACCP, and disease outbreaks.

About the Editor Fidel Toldrá, Ph.D., is a Research Professor and Head of the Meat Science Laboratory, Instituto de Agroquímica y Tecnologia de Alimentos (CSIC), Spain. Dr. Toldrá has co-edited and/or authored more than 14 books in food chemistry and food biochemistry, food flavors, and meat and poultry processing.

Associate Editors Y. H. Hui, Ph.D., Science Technology System, West Sacramento, California Iciar Astiasarán, Ph.D., University of Navarra, Pamplona, Spain Wai-Kit Nip, Ph.D., University of Hawaii at Manoa, Honolulu, Hawaii Joseph G. Sebranek, Ph.D., Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa Expedito-Tadeu F. Silveira, Ph.D., Instituto de Tecnología de Alimentos, Campinas – SP, Brazil Louise H. Stahnke, Ph.D., Chr. Hansen A/S, Hørsholm, Denmark Régine Talon, Ph.D., Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique, Saint-Genès Champanelle, France

Handbook of Fermented Meat and Poultry

Handbook of Fermented Meat and Poultry

Handbook of

Fermented Meat and Poultry Fidel Toldrá Editor

a s s o c i at e E d i t o r s

Fidel Toldrá Editor

Hui Astiasarán Nip Sebranek Silveira Stahnke Talon

Y. H. Hui Iciar Astiasarán Wai-Kit Nip Joseph G. Sebranek Expedito-Tadeu F. Silveira Louise H. Stahnke Régine Talon

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Handbook of Fermented Meat and Poultry Editor Fidel Toldrá Associate Editors Y. H. Hui Iciar Astiasarán Wai-Kit Nip Joseph G. Sebranek Expedito-Tadeu F. Silveira Louise H. Stahnke Régine Talon

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Fidel Toldrá, Ph.D., is a Research Professor and Head of the Laboratory of Meat Science, Instituto de Agroquímica y Tecnologia de Alimentos (CSIC), Valencia, Spain. Dr. Toldrá has co-edited and/or authored more than 14 books in food chemistry and food biochemistry, food technology, and meat and poultry processing. © Blackwell Publishing All rights reserved Blackwell Publishing Professional State Avenue, Ames, Iowa , USA Orders: Office: Fax: Web site: gwd.es Blackwell Publishing Ltd Garsington Road, Oxford OX4 2DQ, UK Tel.: +44 (0) Blackwell Publishing Asia Swanston Street, Carlton, Victoria , Australia Tel.: +61 (0)3 Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use, or the internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Blackwell Publishing, provided that the base fee is paid directly to the Copyright Clearance Center, Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA For those organizations that have been granted a photocopy license by CCC, a separate system of payments has been arranged. The fee codes for users of the Transactional Reporting Service is ISBN / First edition, Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Handbook of fermented meat and poultry/editor, Fidel Toldrá; associate editors, Y. H. Hui [et al.].—1st ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN (alk. paper) ISBN (alk. paper) 1. Fermented foods—Handbooks, manuals, etc. 2. Meat—Preservation—Handbooks, manuals, etc. 3. Fermentation—Handbooks, manuals, etc. I. Toldrá, Fidel. II. Hui, Y. H. (Yiu H.) TPH '—dc22

The last digit is the print number: 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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Contents

Contributors List Preface xvii

ix

Part I. Meat Fermentation Worldwide: History and Principles 1. A Historical Perspective of Meat Fermentation 3 Peter Zeuthen 2. Production and Consumption of Fermented Meat Products 9 Herbert W. Ockerman and Lopa Basu 3. Principles of Curing 17 Karl O. Honikel 4. Principles of Meat Fermentation 31 Esko Petäjä-Kanninen and Eero Puolanne 5. Principles of Drying and Smoking 37 Ana Andrés, José M. Barat, Raúl Grau, and Pedro Fito Part II. Raw Materials 6. Biochemistry of Meat and Fat 51 Fidel Toldrá 7. Ingredients 59 Jorge Ruiz 8. Additives 77 Pedro Roncalés 9. Spices and Seasonings 87 Suey-Ping Chi and Yun-Chu Wu Casings Yun-Chu Wu and Suey-Ping Chi Part III. Microbiology and Starter Cultures for Meat Fermentation Microorganisms in Traditional Fermented Meats Isabelle Lebert, Sabine Leroy, and Régine Talon The Microbiology of Fermentation and Ripening Margarita Garriga and Teresa Aymerich

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Contents

Starter Cultures: Bacteria Pier Sandro Cocconcelli Starter Cultures: Bioprotective Cultures Graciela Vignolo and Silvina Fadda Starter Cultures: Yeasts M-Dolores Selgas and M-Luisa Garcia Starter Cultures: Molds Elisabetta Spotti and Elettra Berni Genetics of Microbial Starters Marie Champomier-Vergès, Anne-Marie Crutz-Le Coq, Monique Zagorec, Sabine Leroy, Emilie Dordet-Frisoni, Stella Planchon, and Régine Talon Influence of Processing Parameters on Cultures Performance Louise H. Stahnke and Karsten Tjener

Part IV. Sensory Attributes General Considerations Asgeir Nilsen and Marit Rødbotten Color Jens K. S. Møller and Leif H. Skibsted Texture Shai Barbut Flavor Karsten Tjener and Louise H. Stahnke Part V. Product Categories: General Considerations Composition and Nutrition Daniel Demeyer Functional Meat Products Diana Ansorena and Iciar Astiasarán International Standards: USA Melvin C. Hunt and Elizabeth Boyle International Standards: Europe Reinhard Fries Packaging and Storage Dong U. Ahn and Byungrok Min Part VI. Semidry-fermented Sausages U.S. Products Robert E. Rust European Products Kálmán Incze Part VII. Dry-fermented Sausages Dry-fermented Sausages: An Overview Fidel Toldrá, Wai-Kit Nip, and Y. H. Hui U.S. Products Robert Maddock Mediterranean Products Juan A. Ordóñez and Lorenzo de la Hoz North European Products Jürgen Schwing and Ralf Neidhardt

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Part VIII. Other Fermented Meats and Poultry Fermented Poultry Sausages Sunita J. Santchurn and Antoine Collignan Fermented Sausages from Other Meats Halil Vural and Emin Burçin Özvural Part IX. Ripened Meat Products U.S. Products Kenneth J. Stalder, Nicholas L. Berry, Dana J. Hanson, and William Mikel Central and South American Products Silvina Fadda and Graciela Vignolo Mediterranean Products Mario Estévez, David Morcuende, Jesús Ventanas, and Sonia Ventanas North European Products Torunn T. Håseth, Gudjon Thorkelsson, and Maan S. Sidhu Asian Products Guang-Hong Zhou and Gai-Ming Zhao Part X. Biological and Chemical Safety of Fermented Meat Products Spoilage Microorganisms: Risks and Control Jean Labadie Pathogens: Risks and Control Panagiotis Skandamis and George-John E. Nychas Biogenic Amines: Risks and Control M. Carmen Vidal-Carou, M. Teresa Veciana-Nogués, M. Luz Latorre-Moratala, and Sara Bover-Cid Chemical Origin Toxic Compounds Fidel Toldrá and Milagro Reig Disease Outbreaks Colin Pierre Part XI. Processing Sanitation and Quality Assurance Basic Sanitation Stefania Quintavalla and Silvana Barbuti Processing Plant Sanitation Jordi Rovira and Dorota Puszczewicz Quality Control Fidel Toldrá, M-Concepción Aristoy, Mónica Flores, and Miguel A. Sentandreu HACCP Maria Joao Fraqueza, Antonio S. Barreto, and Antonio M. Ribeiro Quality Assurance Plan Friedrich-Karl Lücke Index



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Contributors List

EDITOR Fidel Toldrá, Ph.D. Instituto de Agroquímica y Tecnología de Alimentos (CSIC) P.O. Box 73, Burjassot Valencia, Spain Phone: +34 96 , ext. Fax: +34 96 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

ASSOCIATE EDITORS Iciar Astiasarán, Ph.D. University of Navarra Faculty of Pharmacy Department of Food Science, Technology and Toxicology C/Irunlarrea s/n, Pamplona, Spain Phone: +34 , ext. Fax: +34 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Y. H. Hui, Ph.D. Science Technology System P.O. Box , West Sacramento, CA , USA Phone: Fax: E-mail: [email&#;protected] Wai-Kit Nip, Ph.D. University of Hawaii at Manoa Department of Molecular Biosciences & Bioengineering

East-West Road Honolulu, HI , USA Phone: Email: [email&#;protected] Joseph G. Sebranek, Ph.D. Iowa State University Department of Food Science and Human Nutrition Food Sciences Building Ames, IA , USA Phone: Fax: E-mail: [email&#;protected] Expedito-Tadeu F. Silveira, Ph. D. Instituto de Tecnología de Alimentos Centro de Pesquisa e Desenvolvimento de Carnes—CTC/ITAL Av. Brasil —Caixa Postal —CEP Campinas—SP, Brazil Phone: +55 19 Fax: +55 19 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Louise H. Stahnke, Ph.D. Chr. Hansen A/S Boege Allé DK Hoersholm, Denmark Phone: +45 45 74 74 74 Fax: +45 45 74 88 16 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

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Régine Talon, Ph. D. Unité Microbiologie Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique (INRA) Centre de Clermont-Ferrand-Theix Saint-Genès Champanelle, France Phone: +33 4 73 62 41 70 Fax: +33 4 73 62 42 68 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

CONTRIBUTORS Dong U. Ahn Iowa State University Kildee Hall Ames, IA , USA Phone: Fax: E-mail: [email&#;protected] Ana Andrés Polytechnical University of Valencia Institute of Engineering for Food Development P.O. Box , Camino de Vera s/n Valencia, Spain Phone: +34 96 Fax: +34 96 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Diana Ansorena University of Navarra Faculty of Pharmacy Department of Food Science, Technology and Toxicology C/Irunlarrea s/n, Pamplona, Spain Phone: +34 , ext. Fax: +34 E-mail: [email&#;protected] M-Concepción Aristoy Instituto de Agroquímica y Tecnología de Alimentos (CSIC) Department of Food Science P.O. Box 73 Burjassot Valencia, Spain Phone: +34 96 , ext. Fax: +34 96 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Teresa Aymerich Centre de Tecnologia de la Carn, IRTA Finca Camps i Armet s/n

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E Monells (Girona), Spain Phone: +34 Fax: +34 E-mail: [email&#;protected] José M. Barat Polytechnical University of Valencia Institute of Engineering for Food Development P.O. Box Camino de Vera s/n, Valencia, Spain Phone: +34 96 Fax: +34 96 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Shai Barbut University of Guelph Department of Food Science Guelph, Ontario, CAN 1G2W1 Phone: + , ext. Fax: + E-mail: [email&#;protected] Silvana Barbuti Department of Microbiology, SSICA Viale Tanara 31/A, Parma, Italy Phone: +39 Fax: +39 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Antonio S. Barreto FMV, Av. da Universidade, Universidade Tecnica, Polo Universitário Alto da Ajuda Lisboa, Portugal Phone: +35 Fax: +35 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Lopa Basu The Ohio State University Animal Science Building Fyffe Road, Columbus, OH , USA Phone: Fax: E-mail: [email&#;protected] Elettra Berni Stazione Sperimentale per L’Industria delle Conserv Viale F. Tanara 31/A Parma, Italy Phone: +39 Fax: +39 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

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Nicholas L. Berry Iowa State University Department of Animal Science Kildee Hall, Ames, IA , USA Phone: Fax: Sara Bover-Cid Universitat de Barcelona Departament de Nutrició i Bromatologia Facultat de FarmaciaAvinguda Avinguda Joan XXIII s/n Barcelona, Spain Phone: +34 93 45 13 Fax: +34 93 18 96 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Elizabeth Boyle Animal Sciences & Industry Weber Hall, Manhattan, KS , USA Phone: Fax: E-mail: [email&#;protected] Marie Champomier-Vergès INRA Jouy-en-Josas Domaine de Vilvert Unite Flore Lactique et Environment Carné Jouy-en-Josas, France Phone: +33 01 34 65 22 89 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Suey-Ping Chi Chung Hwa University of Medical Technology College of Human Science and Technology Department of Restaurant and Hospitality Management 89, Wunhwa 1st Street Jen-Te County, Tainen, Taiwan E-mail: [email&#;protected] Pier Sandro Cocconcelli Universita Cattolica del Sacro Cuore Istituto di Microbiologia via Emilia Parmense 84, Piacenza, Italy Phone: +39 Fax: +39 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Antoine Collignan Pôle agroalimentaire, CIRAD MRST Station de la Bretagne BP 20

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Saint Denis cedex 9, France Phone: +33 02 62 92 24 47 Fax: +33 02 62 92 24 31 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Anne-Marie Crutz-Le Coq INRA Jouy-en-Josas Domaine de Vilvert Unite Flore Lactique et Environment Carné Jouy-en-Josas, France E-mail: [email&#;protected] Lorenzo de la Hoz University Complutense Department of Nutrition, Bromatology and Food Technology Faculty of Veterinary Avda Puerta del Hierro s/n Madrid, Spain Phone: +34 Fax: +34 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Daniel Demeyer University of Ghent Department Animal Production Proefhoevestraat 10, B Melle, Belgium Phone: +32 9 Fax: +32 9 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Emilie Dordet-Frisoni INRA Clermont-Ferrand-Theix Unité Microbiologie Saint-Genès Champanelle, France Phone: +33 04 73 62 41 70 Fax: +33 73 62 42 68 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Mario Estévez University of Extremadura Faculty of Veterinary Ctra. Trujillo s/n, Cáceres, Spain Phone: +34 Fax: + E-mail: [email&#;protected] Silvina Fadda Centro de Referencia para Lactobacillos CERELA, CONICET Chacabuco Tucuman, Argentina Phone: +54 Fax: +54 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

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Contributors List

Pedro Fito Polytechnical University of Valencia Institute of Engineering for Food Development P.O. Box Camino de Vera s/n, Valencia, Spain Phone: +34 96 Fax: +34 96 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

Raúl Grau Polytechnical University of Valencia Institute of Engineering for Food Development P.O. Box , Camino de Vera s/n Valencia, Spain Phone: +34 96 Fax: +34 96 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

Mónica Flores Instituto de Agroquímica y Tecnología de Alimentos (CSIC) Department of Food Science P.O. Box 73 Burjassot, Valencia, Spain Phone: +34 96 , ext. Fax: +34 96 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

Dana J. Hanson North Carolina State University Food Science Department Raleigh, NC , USA E-mail: [email&#;protected]

Maria Joao Fraqueza FMV, Faculdade de Medicina Veterinária de Lisboa CIISA, DTIA, Rua Prof Cid dos Santos, Polo Universitário Alto da Ajuda Lisboa, Portugal Phone: +35 Fax: +35 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Reinhard Fries Institut fur Fleischhygiene und Technologie Meat Hygiene and Technology Free University of Berlin Brummerstr, 10 Berlin, Germany Phone: +49 Fax: +49 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

Torunn T. Haseth Norwegian Meat Research Centre P.O. Box Økern N Oslo, Norway Phone: +47 Fax: +47 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Karl O. Honikel Institute for Chemistry and Physics Bundesforschungsanstalt für Ernährung EC Baumann-Strasse 20 D Kulmbach, Germany Phone: +49 Fax: +49 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Melvin C. Hunt Animal Sciences & Industry Weber Hall Manhattan, KS , USA Phone: Fax: E-mail: [email&#;protected]

M-Luisa García University Complutense Dep. Nutrición Bromatología y Tecnología de Alimentos Madrid, Spain Phone: +34 91 Fax: +34 91

Kálmán Incze Hungarian Meat Research Institute Gubacsi ut 6/b Budapest, Hungary Phone: +36 1 Fax: +36 1 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

Margarita Garriga Centre de Tecnologia de la Carn, IRTA Finca Camps i Armet s/n E Monells (Girona), Spain Phone: +34 Fax: +34 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

Jean Labadie INRA Clermont-Ferrand-Theix Unité Microbiologie Saint-Genès Champanelle, France Phone: +33 Fax: +33 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

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M. Luz Latorre-Moratalla Universitat de Barcelona Departament de Nutrició i Bromatologia Facultat de Farmacia Avinguda Joan XXIII s/n Barcelona, Spain Phone: +34 93 45 13 Fax: +34 93 18 96 Isabelle Lebert Unité Microbiologie INRA Centre Clermont-Ferrand-Theix Saint-Genès Champanelle, France Phone: +33 04 73 62 41 70 Fax: +33 04 73 62 42 68 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Sabine Leroy Unité Microbiologie INRA Centre Clermont-Ferrand-Theix Saint-Genès Champanelle, France Phone: +33 04 73 62 41 70 Fax: +33 04 73 62 42 68 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Friedrich-Karl Lücke University of Applied Sciences FB Oecotrophologie Department of Household Management Nutrition and Food Quality Fachhochschule Fulda Marquardstr. 35 D Fulda, Germany Phone: +49 Fax: +49 E-mail: [email&#;protected]gwd.es Robert Maddock North Dakota State University Department of Animal & Range Sciences Hultz P.O. Box , Fargo, North Dakota , USA Phone: Fax: E-mail: [email&#;protected] William Mikel Mississippi State University Department Food Science, Nutrition and Health Promotion P.O. Box Mississippi State, MS , USA Phone: Fax: E-mail: [email&#;protected]

Byungrok Min Iowa State University Kildee Hall Ames, IA , USA Phone: Fax: E-mail: [email&#;protected] Jens K.S. Møller University of Copenhagen Faculty of Life Science Department of Food Science, Food Chemistry Rolighedsvej 30 Frederiksberg C, , Denmark E-mail: [email&#;protected] David Morcuende University of Extremadura, Faculty of Veterinary Ctra. Trujillo s/n, Cáceres, Spain Phone: +34 Fax: +34 Ralf Neidhardt Chr. Hansen GmbH Giessener Strasse 94 Pohlheim, D Germany Phone: +49 Fax: +49 30 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Asgeir Nilsen Matforsk AS, Osloveien 1 Aas, , Norway Phone: +47 Fax: +47 E-mail: [email&#;protected] George-John E. Nychas Agricultural University of Athens Department of Food Science and Technology Iera Odos 75 Athens , Greece Phone/fax: +30 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Herbert W. Ockerman The Ohio State University Animal Science Building Fyffe Road, Columbus, OH , USA Phone: Fax: E-mail: [email&#;protected]

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Juan A. Ordoñez University Complutense Department of Nutrition, Bromatology and Food Technology Faculty of Veterinary Avda Puerta del Hierro s/n Madrid, Spain Phone: +34 Fax: +34 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Emin Burçin Özvural Hacettepe University Department of Food Engineering Beytepe Ankara, , Turkey Phone: +90 Fax: +90 Esko Petäjä-Kanninen Viikki Food Science Department of Food Technology, Viikki EE P.O. Box 66, FIN Helsinki, Finland Phone: + 5 Fax: + 9 Colin Pierre AFSSA (site de Brest) Technopôle Brest-Iroise, Plouzane, France Phone: +33 (0)2 98 22 45 34 Fax: +33 (0)2 98 05 51 65 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Stella Planchon INRA Clermont-Ferrand-Theix Unité Microbiologie Saint-Genès Champanelle, France Phone: +33 04 73 62 41 70 Fax: +33 04 73 62 42 68 Eero Poulanne Viikki Food Science Department of Food Technology Viikki EE P.O. Box 66 FIN Helsinki, Finland Phone: + 9 Fax: + 9 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Dorota Puszczewicz Department of Biotechnology and Food Science Plaza Misael Bañuelos s/n Burgos, Spain Phone: +34 Fax: +34

Stefania Quintavalla Department of Microbiology, SSICA Viale Tanara 31/A, Parma, Italy Phone: +39 Fax: +39 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Milagro Reig Instituto de Agroquímica y Tecnología de Alimentos (CSIC) Department of Food Science P.O. Box 73 Burjassot Valencia, Spain Phone: +34 96 , ext. Fax: +34 96 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Antonio M. Ribeiro FMV, AV. da Universidade, Universidade Tecnica, Polo Universitário Alta da Ajuda Lisboa, Portugal Phone: +35 Fax: +35 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Pedro Roncalés Department Productión Animal y Ciencia de los Alimentas Facultad de Veterinaria University of Zaragoza Miguel Servet Zaragoza, Spain Phone: +34 Fax: +34 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Jordi Rovira Department of Biotechnology and Food Science Plaza Misael Bañuelos s/n Burgos Spain Phone: +34 Fax: +34 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Marit Rødbotten Matforsk AS Osloveien 1 Aas, , Norway Phone: +47 Fax: +47 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

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Jorge Ruiz Tecnología de los Alimentos Facultad de Veterinaria UEx University of Extramadura Campus Universitario Cáceres, Spain Phone: + Fax: + E-mail: [email&#;protected] Robert E. Rust E. 16th St. Ames, IA , USA Phone/fax: (H) (O) (M) E-mail: [email&#;protected][email&#;protected] Sunita J. Santchurn Pôle agroalimentaire, CIRAD MRST Station de la Bretagne BP 20 Saint Denis cedex 9, France Phone: +33 02 62 92 24 47 Fax: +33 02 62 92 24 31 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Jürgen Schwing Chr. Hansen GmbH Giessener Strasse 94 Pohlheim, D Germany Phone: +49 Fax: +49 30 E-mail: [email&#;protected] M-Dolores Selgas University Complutense Facultad de Veterinaria Dep. Nutrición Bromatología y Tecnología de Alimentos Madrid, Spain Phone: +34 91 Fax: +34 91 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Miguel A. Sentandreu Instituto de Agroquímica y Tecnología de Alimentos (CSIC) Department of Food Science P.O. Box 73 Burjassot, Valencia, Spain Phone: +34 96 , ext.

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Fax: +34 96 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Maan S. Sidhu Norwegian Meat Research Centre P.O. Box Økern N Oslo, Norway Phone: +47 Fax: +47 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Panagiotis Skandamis Agricultural University of Athens Department of Food Science & Technology Iera Odos 75 Athens , Greece Phone/fax: +30 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Leif H. Skibsted University of Copenhagen Faculty of Life Science Department of Food Science, Food Chemistry Rolighedsvej 30 Frederiksberg C, , Denmark Phone: +45 35 33 Fax: +45 35 33 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Elisabetta Spotti Stazione Sperimentale per L’Industria delle Conserv Viale F. Tanara 31/A Parma, Italy Phone: +39 Fax: +39 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Kenneth J. Stalder Iowa State University Department of Animal Science Kildee Hall Ames, IA , USA Phone: Fax: E-mail: [email&#;protected] Gudjon Thorkelsson Iceland Fisheries Laboratories Skulagata 4, Reykjavik, Iceland Phone: + E-mail: [email&#;protected]

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Contributors List

Karsten Tjener Chr. Hansen A/S Boege Alle Hoersholm, , Denmark Phone: +45 Fax: +45 E-mail: [email&#;protected] M. Teresa Veciana-Nogués Universitat de Barcelona Departament de Nutrició i Bromatologia Facultat de Farmacia Avinguda Joan XXIII s/n Barcelona, Spain Phone: +34 93 45 13 Fax: +34 93 18 96 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Jesús Ventanas University of Extremadura Faculty of Veterinary Ctra. Trujillo s/n, Cáceres, Spain Phone: +34 Fax: +34 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Sonia Ventanas University of Extremadura Faculty of Veterinary Ctra. Trujillo s/n Cáceres, Spain Phone: +34 Fax: +34 E-mail: [email&#;protected] M. Carmen Vidal-Carou Universitat de Barcelona Departament de Nutrició i Bromatologia Facultat de Farmacia Avinguda Joan XXIII s/n Barcelona, Spain Phone: +34 93 45 13 Fax: +34 93 18 96 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Graciela Vignolo Centro de Referencia para Lactobacillos CERELA, CONICET

Chacabuco Tucuman, Argentina Phone: +54 Fax: +54 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Halil Vural Hacettepe University Department of Food Engineering Beytepe Ankara, , Turkey Phone: +90 Fax: +90 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Yun-Chu Wu Tunghai University College of Agriculture Taichung, Taiwan, ROC Phone: + 0 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Monique Zagorec INRA Jouy-en-Josas, Domaine de Vilvert Unité Flore Lactique et Environment Carné Jouy-en-Josas, France Phone: +33 01 34 65 22 89 Fax: +33 01 34 65 21 05 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Peter Zeuthen Hersegade 7G Roskilde, DK , Denmark Phone: +45 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Gai-Ming Zhao Henan Agricultural University College of Food Science and Technology Zhengzhou , China Phone: +86 25 Fax: +86 25 E-mail: [email&#;protected] Gian H. Zhou Nanjing Agricultural University College of Food Science and Technology Nanjing , PR China Phone: +86 25 Fax: +86 25 E-mail: [email&#;protected]

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Preface

Fermented meat products have been consumed for centuries in many different parts of the world and constitute one of the most important groups of food. Based on the natural meat flora, a wide range of products have been prepared since ancient times by varying the mixture of meats and salt as well as the addition of spices and seasonings. Thus, fermented meat products represent a great variety of flavors and textures and are receiving increased interest from consumers all over the world who are seeking new gustatory experiences. Most of these products still rely primarily on local, traditional manufacturing processes since little scientific information is available; but scientific knowledge has become an important tool for consistent production of high quality and safe products. This book contains 50 chapters that are grouped into 11 parts covering most aspects of fermented meat and poultry. Part I deals with the history, production, and consumption of fermented meats as well as general aspects and principles of processing (curing, fermentation, drying, and smoking). Part II describes the main characteristics and uses of raw materials and ingredients. Part III is focused on the microbiology involved in meat fermentation and describes the most commonly applied starter cultures. Part IV looks into the sensory properties of fermented meat products. The composition and nutritional quality, packaging, and international standards are covered in Part V. The description of manufacturing processes and characteristics of semidry-fermented and dry-fermented sausages are covered in Parts VI and VII, respectively. Fermented poultry sausages and other fermented meats are described in Part VIII. Part IX covers the manufacture and characteristics of ripened meat products, especially dry-cured hams. Part X covers biological and chemical safety aspects, and, finally, Part XI is focused on sanitation and quality assurance.

This handbook provides an updated and comprehensive overview of meat fermentation. It includes important developments that have occurred during the last few decades including the role of microorganisms naturally present or added as starter cultures; important safety aspects in today’s world; a description of the primary chemical, biochemical, physical, and microbiological changes that occur during processing; and a summary on how they influence the final product quality. The book also provides a detailed description of the major typical fermented meat products around the world and the processing technologies currently applied in meat processing plants. This book is the result of the expertise of 93 international contributors from 17 different countries. These experts from industry, government, and academia have been led by an editorial team of 8 members from 5 different countries. The editorial team wishes to thank all the contributors for making this book possible. We also thank the production team at Wiley-Blackwell with special recognition to Susan Engelken, senior editorial assistant and coordinator of the project, Judi Brown, the production project manager, and Nancy Albright, the copy editor. We sincerely hope that you will find this book enlightening and that the information provides a better understanding of fermented meat and poultry products.

Fidel Toldrá Y. H. Hui Iciar Astiasarán Wai-Kit Nip Joseph G. Sebranek Expedito-Tadeu F. Silveira Louise H. Stahnke Régine Talon

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Part I Meat Fermentation Worldwide: History and Principles

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1 A Historical Perspective of Meat Fermentation Peter Zeuthen

INTRODUCTION One of the most important prerequisites for the development of civilization was to devise methods on how to preserve foods for storage and transport in order to meet the need for food for increasing concentration in communities. Drying of foodstuffs was probably the first development in this direction, followed by smoking, which in many cases was a natural consequence; drying often was accelerated by hanging up the raw material near the open fire. Nobody had the idea that other processes such as enzymatic breakdown and product changes caused by microorganisms or endogenous enzymes could also be the reason for extension of product life. However, the transformation of raw materials to more-or-less stable foods by drying and fermentation is well known in many ancient cultures and used for many different foods. Actually, drying as an initial step of preservation, or the “wet way,” such as steeping often followed by heating, is well known in beer production, for example, where the breakdown of raw materials takes place because the enzymes are brought into a suitable environment regarding pH and water activity. The very word fermentation, derived from the Latin (to boil ), means among other things to simmer or bubble, or leaven as a process, was probably not well understood, except that the effect was certainly used when it came to baking, wine making, beer brewing, and production of dairy products or certain

meat products. However, because it was poorly understood, this frequently resulted in faulty production. This happens today. When the author of this chapter visited a factory for producing Parma Hams about 25 years ago, the production manager admitted that up to 25% of the raw material never reached a stage qualifying for the stamp of Parma Ham because it was putrid before it was ready for sale. Today, some uncertainties still exist regarding how to define different fermented meats. Adams () thus describes fermented food in three categories: 1) those in which microorganisms play no or little part, such as tea fermentation; 2) those in which microbial growth, though an essential feature, does not involve fermentative metobolism, such as the production of tempeh; and 3) the true fermentations, which produce, e.g., lactic acid in products such as salami. If Adams had included raw ham, he would probably have placed hams under category 2, although it now is under discussion whether it rightly should be placed under category 1. Lücke () writes that fermented sausages, and to some extent raw ham, are produced through the participation of microorganisms. Both products should therefore be considered fermented meat. The history of fermented meat products is very old. In the opinion of the author, it includes both raw, dried ham and sausages, because both categories of products alter qualities during production and storage due to fermentation.

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EARLY RECORDS OF FERMENTED MEAT PRODUCTS RAW CURED HAM The Chinese (Houghton ) are claimed to be the first ones who mentioned the production of raw cured ham, but other authors of the ancients also discussed the process. Cato (– B.C.) () explains in details in his book On Agriculture how raw ham was manufactured and stored: After 5 days of dry-cure, the hams are rotated and restacked in the vat for 12 days. The remaining salt is brushed off. They are then hung for 2 days in a draught. Then, after a further cleaning they are finally rubbed with oil and smoked for 2 days. They are then rubbed with a mixture of oil and vinegar to avoid “flees and worms” and hung in a meat house. Similarly, Leistner (b) gives an account about how the Roman Emperor Diocletian in A.D. in a public notification distinguishes between highly cured and smoked hams and the lightly salted and dried (unsmoked) hams. Also, Leistner, citing Lissner (), mentions that Varro, who lived in the 1st century B.C., wrote about a substantial import to Rome from Gaul of hams, sausages, and other meat products. Leistner is also of the opinion that the technology of salted ham production was derived from the Romans. DRY SAUSAGE From ancient times sausages were invented as a means of making the most of leftovers of meat and entrails. One of the most common names today for fermented sausages is salami. The name appears to have originated in the ancient Greek town of Salamis, on the Cyprian east coast (Pederson ). Although Salamis was destroyed about B.C., the salami sausage style was apparantly widely known and appreciated by then, and clearly seems to have been the forerunner of the many popular European varieties (Smith ). Homer (about – B.C.) talks about “sausages” in the Odyssey. Sausages were also well known in the Roman Empire (Leistner a). Those sausages were mainly made of blood, fat, and meat scrap and were cooked, so they had nothing to do with dry, fermented sausages. Pederson () citing Breasted () stated that the success of Caesar’s legions in the conquest of Gaul can be attributed to their use of dry sausage for their meat supply and that this aided the retention of their vigor and health. The Roman butchers cut their beef and pork into small pieces, added salt and spices, packed

the blend into skins, and placed these in special rooms to dry. It was their experience that their sausages would keep better if stored and dried that way. Presumably, besides the favorable extrinsic factors, the sausages were inoculated by lactobacilli and micrococci (now we know that those are a mixture of Kocuria and staphylococci) from equipment and shelves, etc., and a fermentation took place. Sausage making thus spread throughout the Roman Empire. Leistner (a) describes a Chinese type of sausage, Lup Cheong from the North and Southern Dynasty (– B.C.) made from goat and lamb meat with salt and flavored with green onion, bean sauce, ginger, and pepper. The early type of Chinese sausage can hardly be regarded as a fermented sausage, but the contemporary type of Lup Cheong has a comparatively long keepability, mainly because of a high content of lactobacilli—so high that it is considered sour by many (Ho and Koh, cited by Leistner a). The art of producing fermented sausages with a long keepability spread to the rest of Europe. In Germany, the manufacture of fermented sausages commenced only some years ago. Most of the fermented sausages are smoked; in the Mediterranean countries, France, Hungary, and the Balkan countries they are air dried. Spicy sausages predominate. Other types of fermented sausages emerged later as a consequence of advanced meat processing techniques and the availability of refrigeration (Lücke ). One of the most famous types of fermented sausages was developed in Hungary from to by Italians (Incze ). Although the climate in Hungary is less ideal for fermenting and drying, the Italians succeeded in producing their type of dry sausage during the winter months. Characteristic for the original Hungarian sausage is that it is matured for a long time at a relatively low temperature—around 10°C. It is heavily smoked and is covered by a layer of mold. The latter has caused some problems because of the danger of toxin-producing molds, a problem which today by and large has been overcome.

TECHNICAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS RAW CURED HAM As earlier mentioned, drying, as a means of extending shelf life of food, was probably the earliest technique employed by man. This method, however, could be used only if the food was very easy to dry or semidry to begin with, e.g. seeds, or if the climatic

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conditions were suitable, such as charque and carne seca, which are South American air-dried meat specialities. In most other parts of the world, some kind of salting had to be used in addition to prevent rot of the raw material. The combination was well known in several ancient civilizations throughout the world—Rome and even Gaul and China (Leistner a, b). It is a method used today for the production of traditional dried hams. Several attemps have been made to speed up the process. Thus, Puolanne () reports on the pickle injection of raw ham. The method is also used in several other countries today. It reduces the production time considerately, from up to a year to a couple of weeks. Puolanne further reports that these kinds of ham have much less aroma than hams manufactured the traditional way. This observation is reported from several countries. The attempts to hasten the production and improve the safety precautions in ham production have led to the development of inoculation of microorganisms in dry ham. To store dry ham at a higher temperature or to expose it at a higher temperature for a short time during the later part of manufacture is also used in some cases. Puolanne () thus reports on a Finnishmade dry-cured ham, called a sauna ham, which was manufactured earlier. These hams were made as follows: After slaughter, which took place in the autumn, the hams were dry-salted and placed in wooden barrels for 1 to 4 months. Then they were hotsmoked at approximately 40–70°C or applied a cold smoke at approximately 15–20°C for several days. Smoking, a cold smoke at 20–25°C, has traditionally been used in many countries. Thus, Cato () mentions smoking. Various types of German dry hams are smoked, whereas the Parma type ham is never smoked; neither is the Iberian ham (Garcia et al. ). DRY SAUSAGE Cutting up meat in smaller pieces to enable a more uniform distribution of the salt and other ingredients has been a well-known technique since the Greek and Roman days. However, to comminute meat also opened it up for a thorough contamination, not unly of a desired flora, but also of bacteria, which sometimes could be pathogens. It was especially important to exclude air. This often caused faulty productions, especially blowing and discolorations. Before artificial refrigeration and control of humidity was available, it was almost impossible to produce dry sausages of satisfactory quality. Because of these difficulties, and because of the demand for a

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dry sausage, which had at least some keepability, the summer sausage was developed (Leistner b). The name summer sausage is still used in some countries; in others, it is not. Thus, Kinsman () writes that in the U.S., dry and/or semidry sausages are often called summer sausages, but the term certainly covers a lot of names, which in other parts of the world would be called typical fermented sausages, meant to have shelf lives far beyond a few weeks. Rather, the classical dry sausage will have a keepability of a year or more. The modern way of production of dry sausage with the use of starter cultures and full control of temperatures and humidity has completely changed the manufacture of today’s fermented sausage. Classification Systems for Keepable Sausages Several authors have attempted to classify the abundance of sausage varieties. However, when trying to do so, the confusion is increased because sausages of same or similar names are very different according to the geographical area in which they are produced. According to Kinsman (), a cervelat sausage in the U.S. is listed as five different types, with some of them fermented, some uncooked, others cooked. In Ireland, a cervelat sausage is always uncooked and smoked. In Germany, a mettwurst from Westfalia is fermented and dry, whereas a mettwurst from Braunschwchweig is unfermented and classified moist. Kinsman presents several other examples, showing that the name of a certain sausage in different countries is not unambiguous. The tradition for consuming fermented sausages in Europe varies, and it relates traditionally to the area. Thus, probably because of the climate, fermented sausages were practically not produced or consumed on the British Isles, and in Ireland in earlier times, only whole, dried meats such as ham were known. On the European continent, fermented sausages were produced abundantly, a tradition starting in Southern Europe.

STARTER CULTURES The use of starter cultures in various types of foods has been used for a long time, probably for as long as fermentation has been used by man; but it was used simply as a kind of backslopping of remains of earlier production charges. No doubt the dairy industry has been using backslopping purposely, e.g., for making junket and other kinds of fermented milk long before anybody knew anything about bacteria. The process was derived from simple experience in

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the home. As Pederson () describes it, “the mothers observed that when milk soured with a smooth curd and pleasing acid odor, the milk could be consumed without causing distress or illness. When instead, the milk had an unpleasing odour and was spoiled or gassy or oherwise exhibited unsatisfactory character, the infant sometimes became ill after consuming such milk.” Pasteurization made even backslopping much more safe, but the use of defined starter cultures made the production a much more foolproof processes. With meat, it was different. Microorganisms were added through natural contamination, and to this very day backslopping is still commonly used in many places and regions of the world (Bacus and Brown ). Lücke () states that many productions are still made successfully without addition of starter cultures or reinoculation—backslopping of finished sausages. This is due to sausage makers being able to design formulations and ripening conditions that favor the desired microorganisms so strongly that the products are safe and palatable, even if only few lactobacilli and micrococci (i.e., Kocuria and staphyloccoci) are present in the fresh mixture. No doubt the interest in the use of starter cultures arose parallel with the trend toward industrial production, short ripening times, and standardization of the mode in which the sausages were made. It was also very helpful that contemporary refrigeration and airconditioned facilities became available. However, due to the increasing use of starter cultures, which had taken place with such great effect in the dairy industries, attempts were made to develop starter cultures for other foods, such as meats.

LACTOBACILLI Jensen and Paddock () were the first to have published and patented the idea. The inventors used lactobacilli in their patent, which was a mixture of Leuconostoc mesenterioides, Leuconostoc dextranicum, and Leuconostoc pleofructi, but they also set forth a whole range of organisms, all lactobacilli, which would be satisfactory for the purposes of the invention. They included Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus pentosus, Lactobacillus arabinosus, Lactobacillus leichmannii, and several other species. In their claims, they directly warned against gas-forming lactobacilli. The use of a defined microbial culture thus originated in the U.S. with a series of patents issued during the period –

PEDIOCOCCI Bacus and Brown () report that before the introduction and subsequent use of the strains of pediococci as the predominant meat starter cultures, most natural isolates from fermented meats consisted of various species and strains of lactobacilli. They add that lactobacilli are still the predominant microflora in products that are made from chance inoculation (or backslopping) and that chance inoculation was depended on for nitrate reduction. However, the Americans (and other researchers) working with pure cultures failed to achieve successful lyophilized preparations of lactobacillus isolates with the technology used at that time, so the lactobacilli inoculation was replaced with Pediococcus strains that were resistant to lyophilization. When frozen culture concentrates for sausage were introduced, the interest in Lactobacillus strains was renewed. Lücke () noted that in Europe, where low fermentation temperatures are common and nitrate is used much more frequently than nitrite, sausage makers are faced with a problem: A fast lactic acid fermentation suppresses the organisms containing catalase and nitrate reductase to such an extent that defects in color and flavor are common. For a long time, European researchers and sausage manufacturers therefore tried to avoid lactobacilli, and lactobacilli were considered detrimental in spite of their ability to form lactic acid. Not until later did they begin experimenting with suitable micrococci (i.e., Kocuria and staphylococci). A Finnish researcher, Nurmi (), isolated a strain of Lactobacillus plantarum from fermented sausage that turned out to be superior to Pediococcus cerevisiae at 20–22°C, a temperature normal for fermentation of dry sausage in Northern Europe. Pediococci became very popular in the U.S. because of the difficulties there with the shelf life of freeze-dried lactobacilli some years ago. Another reason was that the employed fermentation temperature was usually higher than temperatures used in Europe, which meant that it was imperative that the onset of the pH decrease took place very fast during fermentation in order to avoid growth and toxin formation from Staphylococcus aureus. In fact, the problem of staphylococcal food poisoning caused by defective, fermented dry or semidry sausage was very well known in the U.S. (USDA , cited by Bacus and Brown ). According to these authors, pediococcus starter cultures have proven very effective in inhibiting not only S. aureus, but also other undesirable microorganisms, such as Salmonellae, Clostridium botulinum, and other species, including

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bacilli, gram-negative enterics, and yeasts. Control of the natural fermentation in sausages also appears to prevent histamine accumulation. Higher histamine levels have been found in dry sausage where a natural fermentation process is employed for an extended aging period (Rice et al. ; Rice and Koehler ). STAPHYLOCOCCI/MICROCOCCI (KOCURIA) In his thesis, Niinivaara () proposed a micrococcus strain, which he called M It was selected because it rapidly reduced nitrate, improved color and flavor, and inhibited undesired microorganisms. The strain was later replaced by a fermentative micrococcus isolated by Pohja (). Gramnegative bacteria have also been attempted to be used as starter cultures in fermented meats. Keller and Meyer () reported that gram-negative bacteria have a favorable effect on dry sausage aroma. Buttiaux () isolated Vibrio costicolus, which was used in meat curing in France, primarily as a nitrate reducer, but also because the strain was considered important for aroma and flavor formation. These were properties that also were emphasised by Hawthorn and Leich (). YEASTS AND MOLDS Yeasts are also used as starter cultures. Following some investigations by Hammes et al. (), in which Debaryomyces hansenii was examined, other investigators also identified D. kloeckeri as useful in dry sausage ripening. One might say that to use molds as starter cultures is rather to make a virtue out of a necessity. However, with the frequent occurrence of molds on sausages, especially at a time where climate rooms were not available during cold and humid weather, undesirable mold growth was a frequent menace. In southeast Europe, it was a well known problem. Incze () mentions that Hungarian salami was originally made without molds when it was manufactured in Italy. Originally, the so-called house flora just contaminated the product, but when the significance of mycotoxins was realized, development proceeded to avoid the use of toxiogenic molds. Much development work took place, especially in Germany at the Federal Centre for Meat Research. Mintzlaff and Leistner () reported on a strain of Penicillium nalgiovense as a starter culture, later known as Edelschimmel Kulmbach, which does not form mycotoxins.

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STARTER CULTURES FOR CURED HAM Regarding dry-cured hams, the use of bacterial starter cultures is very different. This is partly because the production takes place for a long time at a much lower temperature than is used for fermented sausages and partly because the dry-cured ham is subjected to a much more salty environment on the surface. The untreated ham is not opened, so essentially the internal ham is sterile from the beginning. Contamination can therefore take place only during the liquid exchange that takes place. Giolitti et al. () conducted a large investigation on dry ham. They concluded that the ripening of hams seems to follow a completely different pattern from that of dry sausages. In their opinion, the microflora, at least in Italian hams, exerts only a minor role in ripening. Souring seems to depend mainly on enzymatic hydrolysis, and this does not lead to end products qualitatively different from those present in normal ham. True putrefaction, however, is the result of microbial growth, starting from internal and external surfaces. Buscailhon et al. () were of the opinion that the aroma of dry-cured ham muscles could be traced back to lipid oxidation or amino acid degradation. However, Hinrichsen and Pedersen () concluded in their study on Parma hams, representing six different stages in the manufacturing process, that microorganisms are important for the development of flavor in Parma ham because all of the correlating volatile compounds they found can be generated by secondary metabolism of microorganisms, especially amino acid catabolism.

CONCLUDING REMARKS It is impossible to cover the whole history of fermented meats in one short chapter, but going through some of the major epochs, the technical discoveries have resulted in far more rational procedures and thus changed many fermented meat products. These items sometimes were successful, but far from always, because many of the secrets of fermentation were unveiled. On the other hand, many discoveries still wait to be made, especially as far as ways in which more refined aroma and taste compounds are formed during processing. A good example is shown in an article by Bolzoni et al. (), which shows the development of volatiles in Parma ham. No doubt there is still much to discover in the future about the mechanisms and the control of volatile development.

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Meat Fermentation Worldwide: History and Principles

REFERENCES MR Adams. Fermented flesh foods. Progr Indust Microbiol – JN Bacus, WL Brown. Use of microbial cultures: Meat products. Food Technol 47(1)– ———. The pediococci: Meat products. In: SE Gilliland, ed. Bacterial Starter Cultures for Foods. Boca Raton, Florida: CRC Press, pp. 86– L Bolzoni, G Barbieri, R Virgili. Changes in volatile compounds of Parma ham during maturation. Meat Sci – JH Breasted. The Conquest of Civilization. New York: Harper & Row, pp. – S Buscailhon, JL Berdagué, G Monin. Timerelated changes in volatile compounds of lean tissue during processing of French dry-cured ham. J Sci Food Agric – R Buttiaux. Technique simple d’examens bacteriologique des saumures de jambon et ses résultats. Proceedings II International Symposium on Food Microbiology, HMSO, London, , pp. – MP Cato. De agricultura (On Agriculture). Translated by WD Hooper. Harvard University Press, pp. – C Garcia, JJ Berdagué, T Antequera, C López-Bote, JJ Córdoba, J Ventanas. Volatile components of dry cured Iberian ham. Food Chem – G Giolitti, CA Cantoni, MA Bianchi, P Renon. Microbiology and chemical changes in raw hams of Italian type. J Appl Bacteriol – WP Hammes, I Röl, A Bantleon. Mikrobiologische Untersuchungen der auf dem deutschen Markt vorhandenen Starterkulturpräparate für die Rohwurstbereitung. Fleischwirtsch –, – J Hawthorn, JM Leitch. Recent advances in Food Science Vol 2. London: Butterwords, pp. – LL Hinrichsen, SB Pedersen. Relationship among flavour, volatile compounds, chemical changes, and microflora in Italian type dry cured ham during processing. J Agric Food Chem – Homer. The Odyssey. XX– CG Houghton. The Encyclopedia Americana International edition Vol Danbury, Connecticut: Grolier Inc, p. K Incze. Technnologie und Mikrobiologie der ungarischen Salami. Fleischwirtsch – LB Jensen, LS Paddock. Sausage treatment. US Patent 2,, H Keller, E Meyer. Die bakterielle Aromatiseierung von Rohwurst. Fleischwirtsch –, –

DM Kinsman. Principal Characteristics of Sausages of the World. Connecticut: Storrs College of Agriculture and Natural Resources, University of Connecticut. L Leistner. a. Allgemeines über Rohschinken. Fleischwirtsch – ———. b. Allgemeines über Rohwurst. Fleischwirtsch – ———. Fermented meats. London: Chapman & Hall, pp. – E Lissner. Wurstologia oder Es geht um die Wurst. Frankfurt am Main: Hauserpresse Hans Schaefer. FK Lücke. Fermented sausages. In: BJB Wood, ed. Microbiology of Fermented Foods Vol II. London: Elsevier Applied Science, pp. 41– ———. Mikrobiologische Vorgänge bei der Herstellung von Rohwurst und Rohschinken. Fleischwirtsch – HJ Mintzlaff, L Leistner. Untersuchungen zur Selektion eines technologisch geeigneten und toxikologisch unbedenklichen Schimmelpilz-Stammes für die Rohwurst-Herstellung. Zeitblatt Veterinär Medicin B – FP Niinivaara. über den Einfluss von BakterienReinkulturen auf die Reifung und Umrötung der Rohwurst. Acta Agrialia Fennica – E Nurmi. Effect of bacterial inoculation on characteristics and microbial flora of dry sausage. Acta Agralia Fennica – CS Pederson. Microbiology of Food Fermentation. 2nd ed. Westport, Connecticut: The AVI Publishing Company Inc, p. MS Pohja. Micrococci in fermented meat products. Acta Agralia Fennica – E Puolanne. Dry cured hams—European style. Proceedings of the Reciprocal Meat Conference – SL Rice, RR Eitenmiller, PE Koehler. Histamine and tyramine content of meat products. J Milk Food Technol – SL Rice, PE Koehler. Tyrosine and histidine decarboxylase activities of Pediococcus cerevisiae and Lactobacillus species and the production of tyramine in fermented sausages. J Milk Food Technol – DR Smith. Sausage—A food of myth, mystery and marvel. CSIRO Food Research Quarterly –8. USDA. The staphylococcal enterotoxin problem in fermented sausage, Task Force report, Food Safety and Wuality Service, USDA, Washington, D.C.

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2 Production and Consumption of Fermented Meat Products Herbert W. Ockerman and Lopa Basu

INTRODUCTION Meat fermentation is a low-energy, biological acidulation, preservation method, which results in unique and distinctive meat properties, such as flavor and palatability, color, microbiological safety, tenderness, and a host of other desirable attributes of this specialized meat item. Changes from raw meat to a fermented product are caused by “cultured” or “wild” microorganisms, which lower the pH. Because this is a biological system, it is influenced by many environmental pressures that need to be controlled to produce a consistent product. Some of these factors include a fresh, low-contaminated, consistent raw material; a consistent inoculum; strict sanitation; control of time, temperature, and humidity during production; smoke; and appropriate additives. Lactic acid, which accounts for the antimicrobial properties of fermented meats, originates from the natural conversion of glycogen reserves in the carcass tissues and from the added sugar during product fermentation. A desirable fermentation product is the outcome of acidulation caused by lactic acid production and lowering the water activity (aw) caused by the addition of salt (curing) and drying. Both natural and controlled fermentations involve lactic-acid bacteria (LAB). Their growth must be understood to produce a safe and marketable product. Most starter cultures, today, consist of lactic acid bacteria and/or micrococci, selected for their metabolic activity, which often improves flavor development. The reduction of pH and the lowering of water activity

are both microbial hurdles that aid in producing a safe product. Fermented sausages often have a long storage life due to added salt, nitrite, and/or nitrate; low pH due to lactic acid production by LAB organisms in the early stages of storage; and later drying, which reduces the water activity. Production and composition figures for fermented products are difficult to obtain, particularly because many of these products are produced and consumed locally and quantities are not recorded. The limited number of references available would suggest that the production and consumption is sizeable.

CURRENT PRODUCTS DEFINITIONS The characteristics and types of fermented products can be found in Tables and Guidelines proposed in the U.S. (American Meat Institute ; Hui et al. ) for making fermented dry or semidry sausages include a definition of dry sausage as chopped or ground meat products, which, due to bacterial action, reach a pH of or less. The drying removes 20 to 50% of the moisture resulting in a moisture to protein ratio (MP) of no greater than to Dry salami (U.S.) has an MP ratio of to 1, pepperoni to 1, and jerky to 1. Semidry sausages are similar except that they have a 15 to 20% loss of moisture during processing. Semidry sausages also have a softer texture and a different flavor profile than dry sausages. Because of the higher moisture content, semidry sausages are more

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Meat Fermentation Worldwide: History and Principles Characteristics of different types of fermented sausages.

Type of Sausage

Characteristics

Dry; long ripening, e.g., dry or hard salami, saucission, pepperoni; shelf-stable

Chopped and ground meat Commercial starter culture or back inoculum U.S. fermentation temperature 15–35°C for 1–5 days Not smoked or lightly smoked U.S. bacterial action reduces pH to – (–% lactic acid; total acidity %, which facilitates drying by denaturing protein resulting in a firm texture; moisture protein ratio ⬍, moisture loss 25–50%, moisture level ,35% European bacterial action reduces pH to – for a more mild taste than U.S.; processing time 12–14 weeks Dried to remove 20–50% of moisture; contains 20–45% moisture, fat 39%, protein 21%, salt %, aw –, yield 64% Moisture protein ratio no greater than Less tangy taste than semidry Chopped or ground meat Bacterial action reduces pH to – (lactic acid –%, total acidity 1%), processing time 1–4 weeks Dried to remove 8–30% of moisture by heat; contains 30–50% moisture, 24% fat, protein 21%, salt %, aw –, yield 90% Usually packaged after fermentation/heating Generally smoked during fermentation No mold Moisture protein ratio no greater than – to Contains 34–60% moisture, production time 3–5 days Weight loss ⬃10%, aw – Usually smoked No mold Highly perishable, refrigerate, consume in 1–2 days

Semidry; sliceable, e.g., summer sausage, Holsteiner, Cervelat (Zervelat), Tuhringer, Chorizos; refrigerate

Moist; undried; spreadable, e.g., Teewurst, Mettwurst, Frishe Braunschweiger

Source: Modified from American Meat Institute (); Gilliland (); Campbell-Platt and Cook (); Doyle et al. (); Farnworth ().

susceptible to spoilage and are usually fermented to a lower pH to produce a very tangy flavor. Semidry products are generally sold after fermentation (pH of or less). These are heated, and they do not go through a drying process (water activity is usually or higher). They are also usually smoked during the fermentation cycle and have a maximum pH of in less than 24 hours. If the semidry sausage has a pH of or less and a moisture protein ratio of to 1 or less, it is considered to be shelf-stable, but most semidry products require refrigeration (2°C). In Europe, fermented meat with a pH of and a water activity of or less is considered shelf-stable (USDA FSIS Food Labeling Policy Manual). To decrease the pH (below ) with limited drying, the U.S semidry products are often fermented

rapidly (12 hours or less) at a relatively high temperature (32–46°C). In Europe, fermentation is slower (24 hours or more) at a lower temperature and results in a higher pH. These differences in speed of fermentation and final pH, result in products having different flavors. PRODUCT INGREDIENTS Raw Meat Beef, mechanically separated beef (up to ⬃5%), pork, lamb, chicken, mechanically separated chicken (up to ⬃10%), duck, water buffalo, horse, donkey, reindeer, gazelle, porcupine, whale, fish, rabbit, by-products, and other tissue from a variety of species are used to make fermented meat products. Fermented meat is

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Production and Consumption of Fermented Meat Products Table

Types of fermented sausages and areas of production.

Type

Area

Dry fermented, mixed cultures

Southern and Eastern Europe, psychotrophic lactic acid, optimum growth 10–15ºC

Mold ripened

Semidry

Dry

Production

40–60 mm, pork, 2–6 mm particle, nitrate, starters, fungi; ferment 10–24°C, 3–7 days; ripen 10–18°C, 3–6 weeks; weight loss higher than 30%, low water activity, higher pH, to , lower lactate, 17 mmol/ g of dry matter Northern Europe, 90 mm pork/beef, 1–2 mm LAB (Lactobacillus particle, nitrite, starters; plantarum or smoked, ferment Pediococcus) and 20–32°C, 2–5 days; Micrococcaceae rapid acidification to (Staphylococcus below 5, smoking ripen carnosus or 2–3 weeks; weight loss Micrococcus) higher than 20%, lower pH, to , higher lactate 20–21 mmol/ g of dry matter Europe, U.S. Usually with starters Usually with starters, bowl chopper Without starters, bowl chopper Usually with starters, ground Usually with starters Usually with starters U.S. Usually with starters

Usually with Pediococcus acidilactici Usually with Pediococcus acidilactici

Sausages

Sensory

Italian Salami Spanish Salchichon, Chorizo (usually no starter) French Saucisson, 9 mg/g of lactate/g German Salami, 15 mg/g of lactate/g Hungarian Salami Nordic Salami

Fruity, sweet odor, medium buttery, sour and pungent, more mature

Buttery, sour odor, low levels of spice and fruity notes, more acid More acid More acid

French Salami Germany Salami Hungarian Salami Italian Salami California Salami Yugoslavian Salami

Summer sausage, M/P ratio – Thuringer Beef sticks Beef sticks Pepperoni, M/P ratio

Source: Hui et al. (); Schmidt and Berger (); Demeyer et al. (); Stahnke et al. ().

often divided into two groups: products made from whole pieces of meat, such as hams; and products made from meat chopped into small pieces, such as various sausage types. Details on producing these products will be treated in succeeding chapters. The predominant bacteria that appear in fresh meat are typically gram-negative, oxidase-positive,

aerobic rods of psychrotrophic pseudomonads along with psychrotrophic Enterobacteriaceae, small numbers of lactic acid bacteria, and other gram-positive bacteria. The lactic and other gram-positive bacteria become the dominant flora if oxygen is excluded and is encouraged during the fermentation stages. Because the production of fermented meats depends

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Meat Fermentation Worldwide: History and Principles

on microorganism growth, it is essential that these products are hygienically processed and chilled prior to use and maintained under refrigeration prior and during the curing operation. Starter Cultures Traditionally, fermented products depend on wild inoculum, which usually do not conform to any specific species but are usually related to Lactobacilli plantarum. However, other species such as Lb. casei and Lb. leichmanii, as well as many others, have been isolated from traditionally fermented meat products (Anon ). In the U.S., Lb. plantarum, Pediococcus pentosaceus, or P. acidilactici are the most commonly used starter cultures. In Europe, the starter cultures used most include Lb. sakei, Lb. plantarum, Pediococcus pentosaceus, Staphylococcus xylosus, S. carnosus, and to a lesser extent Micrococcus spp. Reliance on natural flora results in products with inconsistent quality. The advantage of a starter culture is that the same microorganisms can be used repeatedly, which cuts down on variation of the finished product, and a larger number of organisms can be added. Now, combined starter cultures are available in which one organism produces lactic acid (e.g., Lactobacilli) and another improves desirable flavors (Micrococcaceae, Lb. brevis, Lb. buchneri). This translates into a lot of very good and acceptable product and almost no undesirable fermented product. However, very little extremely excellent product is produced, because most starter cultures are a combination of just a few species of microorganisms and they cannot produce as balanced a flavor as sometimes can be obtained when many species are included. Particularly in the south European countries, dry sausages are applied with atoxinogenic yeast and fungi to produce products with specific flavor notes. This is done by dipping or spraying. Mold cultures tend to suppress natural molds and, consequently, reduce the risk of mycotoxins. Due to the extended ripening and drying for these products, the final pH is usually higher (pH >), even if the pH was lower after fermentation, because molds can utilize lactic acid and produce ammonia. This requires the final water activity to be low enough for preservation. Other Ingredients Salt is the major additive in fermented meat products. It is added in levels of 2–4% (2% minimum for desired bind, up to 3% will not retard fermentation), which will allow lactic acid bacteria to grow and will inhibit several unwanted microorganisms.

Nitrite is used at 80 to mg/kg for antibacterial, color, and antioxidant purposes. Nitrate and nitrite are often used in combination, but nitrate is usually not necessary except as a reservoir for nitrite, which could be useful in long-term processing. Nitrite is also a hurdle, which inhibits bacterial growth and retards Salmonellae multination. Fermentation can be produced with only salt, but there is a greater microbial risk if no nitrite is used. Simple sugars such as glucose (dextrose, total %, a minimum of % is often recommended), is the fermentation substrate that can be readily utilized by all lactic acid bacteria. The quantity of sugar influences the rate and extent of acidulation, and also contributes favorably to flavor, texture, and product yield properties. The amount of dextrose added will directly influence the final product pH, and additional sugar will not decrease pH further since bacterial cultures cannot grow in excess acid. Spices (e.g., black, red, and white pepper; cardamom; mustard; allspice; paprika; nutmeg; ginger; mace; cinnamon; garlic; and various combinations) are often included in the fermented meat formula. Spices are used for flavor, antioxidant properties, and to stimulate growth of lactic bacteria. Sodium ascorbate (also in the U.S., sodium erythorbate) or ascorbic acid (also in the U.S. erythorbic acid) is used for improvement and stability of color and retardation of oxidation. PROCESSING Formulations are numerous, even for products with the same name, and some are held in strict security. Examples of formulations and processing procedures can be found in Komarik et al. (), Rust (), Ockerman (), Campbell-Platt and Cook (), and Klettner and Baumgartner (). Time, temperature, humidity, and smoke are also variables that control the quality of the final product. Types of casings available include natural casings, artificial casings (made from cotton linters), collagen casings, fibrous casings (synthetic, inedible) for use in the smokehouse or cooker and which are sometimes netted or prestuck (pin-pricked) to allow for better smoke penetration and elimination of air pockets, and cloth bags. Temperature, time, and relative humidity combinations are quite variable in industrial productions. In general, the higher the fermentation temperature and water activity, the faster the lactic acid production. In Europe, the fermentation temperatures range from 5 to 26°C, with lower temperatures used in the Mediterranean area and higher temperatures in northern Europe. In the U.S., semidried products are

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Nutritive composition of examples of fermented meat products.

Salami, Pork, Beef

Cervelat

Moisture Calorie (kcal) Protein Fat —Monounsaturated —Polyunsaturated —Saturated Ash Fiber Carbohydrate Sugar Calcium Iron Magnesium Phosphorus Potassium Sodium Zinc Copper Manganese Selenium Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) Thiamine (B1) Riboflavin (B2) Niacin (B3) Pantothenic Acid (B5) Vitamin B6 Folate Vitamin B12 Vitamin E (alpha–tocopherol) Cholesterol

Soft

Dry

% % % g/ g g/ g g/ g % 0 % % 11 mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g – mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g – mg/ g 2 DFE/ g – mcg/ g 75 g/ g

% % % – – % 0 % 14 mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Dry

% % 17 g/ g g/ g g/ g % – – – – 1, 5 mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g – – mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g – mg/ g 78 mg/ g

Pepperoni, Pork, Beef Dry % % % 19 g/kg g/ g g/ g % % 5 g/ g % 21 mg/ g mg/ g 18 mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g ␮/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g mg/ g 6 DFE/ g mg/ g ␮/g mg/ g

– ⫽ data not reported. Source: gwd.es (); Nutrition Info (); United States Department of Agriculture (); National Livestock and Meat Board ().

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Meat Fermentation Worldwide: History and Principles

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