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Beginner's Stryfe Modification
Introduction: Beginner's Stryfe Modification
So, you've got your first Nerf gun (commonly referred to as “blasters”) and you've played around with it a little. But you keep hearing about or seeing these people who have “modded” their blaster. There are all sorts of enhancements: paints, re-shells, and performance upgrades ranging from basic fixes to full overhauls of the internal components.
It can be a little intimidating to see all the rewiring and reengineering people have done to their blasters, but don’t worry – even with no technical skills whatsoever, you can do more than you think.
The Stryfe
The N-Strike Elite Stryfe is an excellent blaster for modification thanks to its combination of simple mechanical components and solid design. Even out of the box, these blasters are mainstays for a large number of Nerf enthusiasts.
That being said, there are a few very basic enhancements that can be made using only a small screwdriver that will allow you to fire much faster than normal.
You Will Need:
- 1 Nerf N-Strike Elite Stryfe
- 1 Small screwdriver capable of fitting the Stryfe’s screws
- A box to hold the screws so they don’t disappear
Before Starting:
- Remove all batteries from the Stryfe
- Remove the clip and darts from the Stryfe
- Remember to not overtighten the screws during this modification
- Do not throw any parts away until after the modification is done
All set? Let's get started.
Step 1: Unscrew the Shell
Unscrew the main screws holding the two halves of the Stryfe shell together. Screws 4 and 5 are shorter than the rest and will be placed back in the same holes they came from later.
Note that the screws do not necessarily have to come completely out of the shell. They only need to be fully unscrewed.
There are fourteen screws as indicated in the image. Other screws are unnecessary to remove at this time.
Step 2: Open the Shell
Gently pull apart the halves of the shell.
The easiest way to start this is to place your thumbs in the opening at the bottom where the clip would go and pry the shell apart there.
You will have to go around to different points on the shell to make sure the halves separate cleanly.
Note: The jam door may fall out. Don't worry -- it can be put back later.
Step 3: Familiarize
Before proceeding, familiarize yourself with the internal workings of the blaster.
Each item circled in the image is something that you will be removing or modifying.
- Top Strap Anchor
This is where you can hook a strap onto the Stryfe for carrying. This is OPTIONAL to remove.
- Dart Detector
This prevents the pusher (5) from moving forward if there is no dart in position.
- Clip Detector
- This prevents the motor from turning on if there is no clip in the blaster and has a component that prevents the Trigger from being pulled.
- Pusher Mechanism
- This pushes darts into the flywheel motors at the front of the blaster to fire.
- Trigger
- This moves the pusher. This modification focuses on making the Trigger easier and faster to pull.
- Motor Trigger
- This button is pressed to rev up the motors before firing a dart and has a component that blocks the trigger from being pulled.
- Bottom Strap Anchor
This is where you can hook a strap onto the Stryfe for carrying. This is OPTIONAL to remove.
Step 4: Remove the Dart Detector
Lift the Dart Detector out of its housing and place it off to the side.
Make sure the spring attached to it does not fall into the blaster as it can get stuck in other moving parts.
Step 5: Remove the Pusher Mechanism
Unscrew the center screw (circled in the image) from the blaster shell.
Gently lift the Pusher Mechanism out of the blaster, making sure that the spring at the back comes out with it and remains attached to the Pusher Mechanism.
Step 6: Remove the Trigger
Unscrew the retention screw from the blaster shell.
Lift the Trigger out of the blaster and set it aside.
Step 7: Remove the Clip Detector Trigger Block
- Unscrew the panel over the Clip Detector.
- Lift the Clip Detector button out of the housing.
- Remove the trigger block from the housing.
- Make sure the spring comes with the trigger block (4th image).
IMPORTANT: DO NOT tamper with the small metal box or the wires nearby. These are part of the motor system and the blaster will not work without them.
Step 8: Put the Clip Detector Back Together
- Place the Clip Detector button back in its housing.
- Place the panel back over the Clip Detector and put the screws in where they came from.
Step 9: Replace the Trigger
Place the Trigger back in its housing and put the retention screw back in the hole it came from.
Pay close attention to the picture to make sure the Trigger is aligned properly.
Step 10: Replace the Pusher Mechanism
Place the Pusher Mechanism back into the housing and screw the retention screw back into the hole it came from.
Pay close attention to the picture. Make sure the spring and the piece that aligns with the Trigger are in the right places or the blaster will not work.
Step 11: Remove the Block in the Motor Trigger
- Unscrew the panel over the Motor Trigger.
- Remove the Motor Trigger. Make sure the spring comes out with it.
- Remove the Trigger Block. Make sure the spring comes out with it.
- This is what it should look like once the block is removed.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT tamper with the small metal box or the wires nearby. These are part of the motor system and the blaster will not work without them.
Step 12: Put the Motor Trigger Back Together
- Place the Motor Trigger back in its housing. Make sure the spring sits as it does in the image.
- Screw the panel back onto the housing.
Step 13: Take Stock
These are all the pieces you will have removed during this modification. The white pieces are optional to have removed.
If there are any pieces missing from this (besides the white ones) or if there are any extra pieces (except for the fourteen screws from Step 1), GO BACK. Try to figure out what went wrong.
Step 14: Put the Shell Back Together
Make sure the jam door is in place. Line up the halves of the shell and press them together until they pop into place. You may hear small clicking or snapping noises -- this is just the pieces lining up.
Once the shell is lined up, put the screws back in. Remember that screws 4 and 5 (the short screws) must go back in the indicated holes. The rest of the screws are interchangeable.
IMPORTANT: Remember not to tighten the screws too much or you might break the plastic.
Step 15: Test the Mod
Place a clip with darts into the blaster and put batteries in the blaster.
Activate the flywheels by pulling the Motor Trigger.
Fire a few darts as quickly as you can. You should notice that the Trigger is much faster and smoother to pull.
If it works, congratulations! You just completed your first Nerf modification!
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25 Discussions
my stryfe did not have the dart detector in it so it was already removed before i buyed it! no joke, i actually bought it a couple hours ago at a toy store, and when i got home and i opened the stryfe there was no dart detector. do i consider myself lucky or something??
im late but does this work with the nerf modulus stryfe because there is a problem with the stryfe not being able to fire a lot of bullets because of the thermist is cooling down before shooting
btw i appericate you helping others with your helpful advice
Is it possible to send an electrical impulse to the motor trigger to make it fire the gun, or is physically pulling a trigger necessary?
You can easily replace the trigger button with a momentary switch. Works the same in the Nerf Barricade RV10.
motor trigger is stuck! what should I do?
Had the exact same issue. Was solved by taking it apart and gently (but firmly) pressing on the cover of the motor trigger. Something snapped in place and no further issue to be found...
I believe you didn't position the spring correctly. It needs to be sitting at the proper notch.
how much does a stryfe cost and where can I get one?
The most recent Stryfe, a BattleCamo Stryfe (Walmart Exclusive) costs $40. It comes with a 10 dart magazine, barrel attachment, a stock, and a foregrip.
I searched how to put after market mechanical locks into it how did I end up here
I have a stryfe that when i load a new mag in and fire the first dart I fire doesn't get max preformance and i opened it a the lower fly-wheel doesn't activate untill a dart has passed through and then it will work can anyone help me?
just to tell you, that is not a plunger, it is a dart tooth
No, its called a PUSHER MECHANISM
CohenO. It's called a dart tooth. Ask Coop772. Ether dart tooth or dart rod.
Good catch! Thanks, I fixed the guide.
Just to make sure, does this mod do anything else besides making the trigger more smooth? Will be doing this mod soon. Thanks!
Nope! This mod just makes the trigger a smoother pull and takes out some locks that could cause jamming.
I've been debating whether to get a stryfe or rayven, but this tutorial makes the stryfe seem much easier to mod. Thanks for the great documentation and for making my decision for me!
Rayven works about the same. One could probably do the same mods after identifying the same things.
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